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Day 1 - Monday

Every morning starts with a daily overview.
Listen for the Bosun's Whistle at 8:00 a.m. sharp!

Step 1 - Set Up Your Sawhorses

_____ 1.1. Unfold your tarp.

_____ 1.2. Place your sawhorses approximately 9 feet apart in the center of your tarp.

_____ 1.3. Use blue painter's tape to secure the corners of your tarp down. Do not use duct tape or any other type of tape or glue.

_____ 1.4. Select a straight sideboard (3/4” x 5-1/2” x 14’). Make sure that it does not have a bevel on one end.

_____ 1.5. Center, then clamp, the sideboard to one of the sawhorses. The top of the sideboard should be about 1/4" lower than the top of the sawhorse. This board will support the sideboards during bending and, eventually, the boat's stern.

_____ 1.6. Confirm that the sawhorse and the sideboard are level; adjust your clamps or use shims as needed.

_____ 1.7. Confirm that the second sawhorse is level; use shims as needed.

Step 2 - Fasten the Sideboards to the Inner Stem

_____ 1.8. Select an inner stem. It will be marked "IS" on one end and "Bottom" on the other end.

_____ 1.9. Select a pair of sideboards pre-cut with a 6-degree angle on one end. Line up the 6-degree cut end of the sideboard with the stem's front edge. The front edge and bottom of the sideboard must be flush with the stem. Clamp the inner stem and the sideboard together using a hand screw clamp.

_____ 1.10. Drill three (3) evenly spaced 1/8" pilot holes approximately 1 inch from the front edge of the sideboard.

_____ 1.11. Remove the hand screw clamp and repeat the process for the other sideboard. There are now three (3) 1/8" pilot holes in each sideboard with corresponding holes in the stem.

_____ 1.12. Use a bar clamp to secure one side of the sideboard vertically to the sawhorse. Check whether the stem stands vertically and leans forward when the bottom board is level and plumb (i.e., straight up and down) at the stern support. Correct placement and alignment are critical; if in doubt, request a Crew Check.

____ 1.13. Apply 4200 Fast Cure Marine Adhesive Sealant to the stem where you will fasten the sideboard. Avoid covering the stem's pilot holes with adhesive. You need to see the pilot holes to make sure the sideboard screws enter them properly.

_____ 1.14. Screw two (2) two-inch (2") screws with fender washers into the sideboard until the tips of the screws are visible. Align the screw tips with the stem pilot holes and fasten the sideboard to the stem. Add the third screw after fastening the sideboard to the stem. The fender washers prevent the screws from pulling through the sideboards during the bending process.

_____ 1.15. With the stem facing up, repeat the process of fastening the other sideboard. The "V" should be flush, with the stem leaning forward.

_____ 1.16. Remove the sawhorse bar clamp.

_____ 1.17. You are now ready to start the bending process.

STOP! Do not proceed until you have a Crew Check.

Step 3 - Attach the Sideboards to the Transom

_____ 1.18. Measure along the top edge of the sideboard from the front of the bow stem, and mark two points on the top: one at 72” and one at 73-1/2”.

_____ 1.19. Do the same on the other sideboard.

_____ 1.20. Place the spreader board between the two lines.

Do not glue the spreader board to the sideboards; you will remove it later.

_____ 1.21. Wrap a line around the ends of the two sideboards about 3” or 4” forward of the double marks on the sideboards, with an eye at one end. Tighten the line by pulling the line through the eye. As you pull the line through the eye, hold the line tightly at the eye with one hand, and continue to pull the line through the eye with your other hand. When the sideboards are against the spreader board, tie off the line.

_____ 1.22. Line the spreader board up between the 72” and 73 1/2” marks. Use one 2” screw to attach each sideboard to each end of the spreader board. Remove the line after attaching the sideboards to the spreader board.

Do not glue the spreader board to the sideboards; you will remove it later.

_____ 1.23. Remove the extension board from the top of the spreader board and return it to the stage.

_____ 1.24. Each sideboard has double 12-degree marks near the ends of the board. This will be the location of the transom. Secure a 12" hand screw clamp to each sideboard along the 12-degree mark closest to the stem (toward the front of the boat). Reposition the line around sideboards directly ahead of the hand screw clamps (toward the stem) and pull the line through the eye until the sideboards are approximately 31” apart at the double 12-degree marks. Tie the line off.

_____ 1.25. Unclamp the 14' sideboard from the sawhorse and return it to the stage.

_____ 1.26. Select a transom and place it against the clamps.

_____ 1.27. Position the boat so the sawhorse is directly below the 12-degree marks, and the transom sits on top of the sawhorse.

_____ 1.28. Check that the tops of both sawhorses are level and that the bow stem is vertical.

If the bow stem is NOT vertical, request a Crew Check.

_____ 1.29. The transom is held higher than the sideboards by temporary spacers (the white tabs) attached to the bottom. These spacers keep the inside edges of the sideboards aligned with the bottom of the transom. The temporary spacers will be removed later.

Step 4 - Attach the Transom

_____ 1.30. Before fastening the sideboard to the transom, be sure that the transom and sideboard are resting on the sawhorse, and the inside edge of the sideboard is in line with the bottom of the transom. Pre-drill the sideboards to accept the transom screws.

_____ 1.31. Secure one sideboard to the transom at a time. Apply a bead of 4200 Fast Cure Marine Adhesive Sealant between the 12-degree marks. Place the transom inside the marks.

_____ 1.32. Use a Spanish Windlass and a 12” hand screw clamp to leverage and bend the lower portion of the sideboard tight against the transom. The Spanish Windlass twists rope lines using a small board for leverage, tightening the rope and helping bring the sideboards toward the transom.

_____ 1.33. With the sideboard tight against the transom, start with the bottom screw and fasten the sideboard to the transom with three (3) two-inch (2”) screws and fender washers.

_____ 1.34. Secure the second sideboard in the same way, using a 12" hand screw clamp as needed, until the remaining sideboard is tight against the transom. Be sure the sideboards and transom are still in contact with the sawhorse before securing the second sideboard. If the sideboard does not fit tightly against the transom, you may need to adjust the alignment. If needed, see Day 2 - Step 1 - The Bottom - Adjust Alignment.

Do Not Remove The Spreader Board.

STOP! Do not proceed until you have a Crew Check.

Step 5 - Turn the Boat Bottom Up

_____ 1.35. After you have completed your Crew Check, turn the boat bottom up. Many hands make this easy!

_____ 1.36. Check to see that the inside edges of the sideboards are even with the transom. The level should be resting on the outer edges of the sideboards and should be approximately 1/4” higher than the transom.

_____ 1.37. Remove the spacers from the transom.

Step 6 - Install the Chine Boards and Rack the Frame

_____ 1.38. Cut one end of 3/4” x 2 3/4” chine to match the transom angle. This will require a compound miter cut using a bevel square.

_____ 1.39. Clamp the chine at the transom to hold it while bending into place along the sideboard.

_____ 1.40. Clamp a scrap board to the sideboard to hold the chine while cutting it to fit.

_____ 1.41. With the chine against the sideboard, cut the bow end to fit. Use a bevel square to determine the cut angle.

_____ 1.42. Bend the chine and clamp it to the sideboard. Secure the chine tightly against the sideboard. If the chine isn't tight against the sideboard, the frames will not fit properly when they are installed.

_____ 1.43. Lay a 4’ level across the boat. Make sure the outer edge of the sideboard and the outer edge of the chine touch the level at the same height as shown in the figure below (IMAGE).

_____ 1.44. Make sure the inner edge of the chine board is even with the bottom edge of the transom.

_____ 1.45. With the chine board in place, fully countersink 1-1/4” screws to fasten the sideboard to the chine every 8” from the outside.

_____ 1.46. Lay a 4’ level across the boat. Plane the top edges of the chine board and sideboard until the level sits flat. There should be no daylight between the level and the planed boards.

_____ 1.47. Make sure the boat is not racked (out of alignment). Check this by measuring from a forward center point on the inner stem to the transom edge on one side. Then, from the same center point, take a corresponding measurement on the other side of the transom. If the measurements don't match, the boat is out of alignment.

_____ 1.48. To correct the alignment, use a Spanish Windlass, similar to the technique used to attach the sideboards to the transom. Wrap a line around the stem, over the sawhorses, under the spreader board, below the longer sideboard, and around the corner of the transom. (Image)

_____ 1.49. To keep the line clear of the first bottom board, place a screw in the top of the sideboard approximately 3” behind the transom. (Image)

_____ 1.50. As you turn the windlass, the longer measurement will decrease until both measurements are equal and the boat is aligned.

_____ 1.51. Trim the inner keel (keelson) to fit at the transom and the stem. Leave the inner keel in place, as you will secure it later.

STOP! Do not proceed until you have a Crew Check.

Day 1 is done - time to clean up and celebrate!

Revision Document Dated October 19, 2026

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