2026 Cutting Instructions
for the
14' Wright Skiff

Transom

Two-Piece Transom

Cut 2 x 10 x 16’, making 5 boards, 38” each.

Remove the rounded edge from one side of each board, leaving at least 9” board width. For each transom, glue two boards together with epoxy, using splines or other joinery, to strengthen the butt joints.

Alternate Method for 3-Piece Transom

Cut 2x8x12’ into 38” lengths.

Remove rounded edge from one side of each board. Glue (2) 2x8 and (1) 2x4 for each transom with the 2x8s as the upper and lower sections of the 3-piece transom and the 2x4 as the centerpiece, using splines or other joinery to strengthen the butt joints. The 2x4 can be made by ripping a 2x8 section in half and removing the remaining rounded edges.

The outside (aft) face of the transom will be the narrowest. The transom will lean afterward at 12 degrees on the finished boat. First, the bottom bevel is cut at 12 degrees, using the transom jig on the table saw. The bottom outside/aft edge of the transom is cut to be 30” with the side angles cut at 14 degrees and the side bevels cut at 12 degrees using the transom jig.

Stems

Check dimensions for changes to minimize waste.

Cut from 4x4x12’ makes 7 Inner stems 19 3/4” long @ 6 degrees angle on the miter saw. On the band saw, set the fence to cut a 22-degree angle, leaving the full width of the 4x4, which is 3 1/2”. Reverse the stem and cut the other side. The nose of the stem should be 5/8”.

Cutting from 4x4x12’ makes 6 outer stems 23 7/8” long @ 6-degree angle on the miter saw. On the band saw, set the fence to cut a 10-degree angle, leaving the full width of the 4x4, which is 3 1/2”. Reverse the stem and cut the other side. Adjust the fence, leaving 2 1/4” at the base. The nose should be 1”.

Chine Planks or Chine Sideboards

Cut the port and starboard sets of planks to match the angles on the inner stem. Cut one end at a 6-degree angle and a 22-degree bevel. Measure from the long side of the 22-degree bevel and the long side of the 6-degree angle and draw a 12-degree line 13’-4” or 160” angling toward the stern. Draw another 12-degree line at 13’-5 1/2” or 161 1/2” parallel to the first line and angling toward the stern. The measurement is long dimension-to-long dimension. Long-to-long measurement is 155 1/4”.

Chines

• Angle cut is 22 degrees. Angle cut on the chines must match the angle cut on the ribs.

• Chine thickness must match rib cutout width.

• Chine stock may need to be planed to a consistent thickness before rib cutouts are made.

Chine stock from lumber suppliers varies in thickness. For chine and rib (frame) to fit together properly, the width of the chine cutout on the ribs (frames) must match the chine thickness. For that reason, chine stock may need to be planed to a consistent thickness prior to cutting, as shown below.

After chine stock is confirmed to be a consistent thickness, rip 3/4 x 5 1/2 x 14’ chine stock in half at 22 degrees.

Set the fence on the right side at 2 – 3/4” before setting the saw to 22 degrees. The long width of the chine should be 2 – 3/4”. Adjust fence as required to ensure both chine boards are equal in width.

Ribs

• Have a 22-degree angle cutout on the drawing. Often referred to as frames in boatbuilding manuals.

• Angle cut of ribs must match angle cut of chines.

• The width of the chine cutout on the rib must match the chine thickness.

Cut from 5/4” x 5 1/2”. On the table saw, set the fence at 2 5/8” and rip in half. Cut into 18 1/4” lengths on the chop saw. On the table saw, set the fence so the blade clears the left side of the jig by 1/16” or less. Avoid cutting the jig. Place the piece in the jig and slide the jig along the fence. Run the off-cut rib in the jig to make the 2nd rib. Both ribs are now equal. Mark the newly cut sides of the ribs.

The width of the chine cutout and the thickness of the chine should match with little under- or over-cutting when fitted together. 

On the bandsaw, set the fence so that the cutout, including the blade kerf, matches the thickness of the chines, which have been confirmed to be consistent.  This will probably be 3/4”. Place the marked/newly cut side of rib against the fence and advance the wide end of the rib into the blade 1 3/4” along the fence.

The width of the chine cutout and the thickness of the chine should match with little under- or over-cutting when fitted together. 

On the bandsaw, set the fence so the cutout, including the blade kerf width, matches the thickness of the chines, which have been confirmed to be consistent.  This will probably be 3/4”. Place the marked/newly cut side of rib against the fence and advance the wide end of the rib into the blade 1 3/4” along the fence.

The angle cut of the chine cutout should match the angle cut on the chine. Set the miter gauge on the bandsaw at 22 degrees and cut across to the end of the 1 3/4” cut. The bandsaw fence will probably be set 2 inches from the blade. The bandsaw miter gauge may need to be set at 68 degrees to produce a 22-degree angle cut. Be sure the angle cut of the rib cutout matches the angle cut of the chines.

Port and Starboard Ribs

The port and starboard ribs are cut the same, but from 1 1/2” x 3 1/2”. 

Add a spacer strip to the bottom-right side of the jig to ensure level operation.  

The port and starboard ribs are cut on the table saw.  Cut notch angle with table saw blade set at 12 degrees and height set at approximately 1”.  Use a miter gauge to hold rib at 12 degrees.  Ribs are cut at opposite 12-degree angles.

Seats and Breasthook

Cut the seats and breasthook from 5/4 x 9 ¼” x 12’ stock.

Front - 33” 

Middle - 42”

Rear - 48”

The remainder (21”) makes two (2) breasthooks.

Skeg

Note - Add dimensions and cutting angles here

Dimensional Lumber

The following pieces of dimensional lumber are cut by the builder to fit the boat.

• 1" x 4" Inner Keel (Quantity 1)

• 1" x 4" Outer Keel (Quantity 1)

• 1" x 2" Seat Rail (Quantity 2)

• 1" x 2" Top Rail (Quantity 2)

• 1" x 2" Clamps (Quantity 2)